tastebuds: kinloch lodge

Back over my birthday weekend, when I was drifting aimlessly through Central Otago with nothing concrete planned, I ended up at Kinloch Lodge, out on the edges of Lake Wakatipu, an hour and a half from Queenstown, down a gravel road near Paradise. I spent a few days here, hiking, enjoying the spa, chatting with John, and enjoying some delicious wines. On the day I left, John mentioned that if I felt like coming back, he would be happy to do a food tasting for me. Well, if you know me then you know I love food and cooking so how could I resist that offer? I picked a weekend and drove back up.

Kinloch sits at the base of the Humboldt and Richardson mountain ranges, only an hour and fifteen minutes from Queenstown and an hour as the crow flies from Milford Sound. It’s an area rich in sheep stations, early tourism, and mining. John and Toni bought the lodge in 2000 and have lovingly restored it over the years to a rambling heritage lodge and backpackers. The restaurant caters to anyone that stays at the lodge or backpackers – although there is a kitchen for budget travellers – and anyone that happens past.

What did I taste? How was it? Read on for all the details and learn how to snag a seat in their cozy dining room.

I stepped inside just as the sun was setting behind the Humboldt mountains behind us. The light hit the snow on the Richardson range across the lake and reflected in the still water. I was loathe to step away from it but of course, I knew that a fabulous dinner awaited me. John handed me the only printed copy of the menu and poured me a glass of wine.

Minutes later, he brought out my first course. He had selected three starters (of eight or so) and given me a tasting platter of each. There was the home-cured salmon with beetroot relish and aioli on a thin slice of homemade rye bread. Two green lip mussels, grilled with lemon juice and topped with a gluten free breadcrumb topping. And a small pulled lamb salad with sheep’s feta and a fresh herb sauce.

My first bite was of the salmon with a little bit of beetroot relish. Normally, I don’t like beetroot. I think it’s weird; its not something I grew up with and I don’t particularly like the flavour. But over my year in New Zealand, I have found two beetroot relishes that I like: this one and one other. The combination of a herb-cured salmon plus the sweet spiciness of the beetroot… well, it just works. Add a bit of aioli and a delicious rye bread and this is a dish I could eat every day.

I tasted one of the mussels next. And I swear I could taste the sea in them, even with the lemon and crumb topping. All the while, John and I were chatting about their previous menus, wine pairings, and more. I asked what menu items were staples, what they’ve kept over the years, over the various incarnations of the menu. John said that both the lamb and the venison were popular and that they would be changing only minor things. When I finally had a bite of the pulled lamb salad, I knew exactly why its popular. The flavour of the slow-cooked lamb, with the fresh herb sauce and the feta cheese, was perfection. The spiciness of the greens offset any overt sweetness from the combination of cheese and herb and balanced out the whole dish.

As I ate, John and I talked about the history of food at Kinloch – what they’ve done over the course of sixteen years and what works and what doesn’t. It was an eye-opening insight into the daily running of a lodge situated in the middle of lush forests and glacial rivers. Over the years, they’ve played with set menus, with a continental breakfast, with a breakfast included for the heritage lodge guests. Anyone who has worked in restaurant management knows that in order to stay current, you must change. Menus must reflect seasonal changes, changes in guest demographics, etc. Even now, sixteen years – and who knows how many menu iterations later, they’re still changing… definitely for the better.

After my amazing starter course, I couldn’t imagine what else John would set in front of me. Ten minutes or so after he whisked away my plate, he set down a tasting plate of the main dishes. Chicken Marsala, venison stew, and poached salmon with a lemon and caper marmalade. There was also a small pile of their potato au gratin, some seasonal veggies, and steamed rice. One thing John mentioned to me was that they’re seeing a lot more groups of Asian tourists and as a result, they decided to include more side options. They’ve also got a crispy Asian noodle beef salad on the menu, which I didn’t taste but sounds fantastic.

It was about now that I started thinking about wines to pair with the meals I was tasting. You guys know I love my wine. And what would a tastebuds post be without a little bit of wine info too? I picked up a copy of the wine list and browsed it, looking for ideas. The wine list at Kinloch is heavily Central Otago centric, and some of the food is sourced from Marlborough and Fiordland, but don’t let that stop you from pairing the Amisfield Pinot Gris with the cured salmon, or the Van Asch syrah with the venison stew.

Can’t decide on a red or white? Rose goes with everything, as some of my wine-loving friends like to say, and the Gibbston Valley Rose is no exception. Personally, I’d pair it with the Oriental beef salad.

If I had to pick, the venison stew would have to be my favourite thing on the mains menu. The first mouthful was packed with flavour of the red wine and herb sauce that they slow cook the venison in. The second bite was better. I moved on, not wanting to finish it off before I tasted some of the others. The salmon, poached in white wine and lemon, was cooked just the way I like it…. actually, if I’m being honest, it was overcooked but that’s only because I could eat salmon straight from the water.

Finally, I took my last bite. I saved a tiny bit of the venison stew for last because I wanted that rich flavour to last with the last sip of my wine. When John asked me about dessert, I professed to be utterly unable to eat another bite – but promised to have something the next day. I did – the warm cherry torte – and it was a balanced blend of tart cherry and sweet, creamy cake.

*****

I didn’t taste any wines with the meal – I wanted to savour my Van Asch syrah (a personal favourite) – but the next night, I tasted three other wines that Kinloch offers by the glass: the Amisfield Pinot Gris, the Gibbston Valley Rose, and the Explorer Pinot Noir. During my tasting meal, I considered the possibilites of a wine pairing with each dish, and while I’d love to say that I have the best pairings in mind, with the Kinloch list, everything is local so it really comes down to what you like to drink. They’ve started carrying the Altitude brewery beers, from Queesntown, and with the range of beers there really is something for everyone.

*****

Kinloch also serves breakfast, with staples such as full English breakfast, blueberry pancakes, and eggs Benedict. They’re open from 8am for breakfast and coffee service in the dining room. There is an all-day menu, from 12-6 and happy hour begins at 5pm. Dinner service starts at 6:30, and it is highly recommended to make a reservation, as in low season they might shut the dining room if no one is there.

If you find yourself passing through on your way to hike at Greenstone or Caples, or in Glenorchy for a day with nothing on your mind (read this post for ideas), then why not make the short drive around Priory mountain for a relaxing stroll down the beach and a hot coffee on the porch, or even a cheeky glass of wine or local Queenstown beer?

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*In exchange for this post, I received a complimentary night at Kinloch Lodge and a sneak peek tasting of their new menu. As always, all opinions are my own.*