The road to paradise begins, quite literally, at the junction of Paradise and Glenorchy. Here, you have two options: keep going down a gravelly road toward Paradise and Rees Valley, or turn left and circle the top of Lake Wakatipu toward Kinloch.Personally, I’ll always go for Kinloch.
I arrived at Kinloch Lodge late in the afternoon and was greeted by the owner John’s welcoming smile. He handed me my room key and suggested I come in for dinner at 6:30. I had about an hour and a half to relax, so I threw on a jacket and headed out to the lake. Here, at the top of the lake, the Dart River flows fiercely out of the mountains, eroding the lake edge and slowly encroaches on the rocky shores of Kinloch Lodge. No matter, the wrinkly trees that dot the shoreline will surely end up thriving in the chilly glacial waters, standing sentinel over the dock and lake approach.
At 6:30, I presented myself in the warm, richly lit dining room ready for a tasting of Kinloch’s finest food and wine. John brought out dish after dish for me to taste and even gave me a sneak peek at their new menu (coming soon…).
After dinner, I sipped some more fantastic Central Otago wine while I relaxed in the cozy chair by the woodstove, and listened to the music playing softly through the speakers. No one else was about, the guests having scattered to their rooms or the lounges. I took a glass of wine to go, and headed for one of the lounges myself.
As I stepped outside on to the wide wooden veranda, I could see the mountains across the lake. The moon was hidden behind a veil of clouds, but the outline of the ridges still visible in the darkness. I crossed the gravel park to the flagstone path and walked toward my room. I was in the same room as the last time I was here, a cozy corner room with a window that looked out on to the lake and two chairs outside the door. The heater was already on, a sure sign of hospitality, and two hot water bottles sat on the bed, ready for me to fill when I needed them.
I picked up my book and headed for the lounge, where cozy couches awaited me. Before long, I found myself drifting off and wisely took myself back to my room to get ready for bed.
In the morning, I awoke with the grey dawn coming through the window and I drew back the curtains to see what the weather was. A low fog greeted me and I knew that my hoped-for helicopter ride wouldn’t be happening that morning. Instead, I pulled on leggings and a warm shirt before crossing to the restaurant and grabbing a soy latte from Jenny. Owner Toni was in the restaurant and when I mentioned that I wanted to call High Country Horses to see what they had available, she picked up the phone and called Deana herself. I had a few hours to kill before my noon horseback ride, so after checking out the garden with John – not so full now, in the winter, but promising to be lush and full of veggies and lettuces for the summer – he recommended that I explore a bit of Glenorchy. Toni and John also own a small bed & breakfast and cafe near the lakefront in Glenorchy, so I grabbed my computer (free wifi!) and drove around the lake.
After a full day – a walk, a horseback ride, and another walk – I wisely decided to don my togs and head up to the spa pool. I am totally in love with this spa pool and want one for my own (eventual) house. Its a wooden barrel pool with thin wooden benches, but its not the pool itself that draws me to it, its the setting. The pool is behind the house and set back on the hill. It overlooks the roof and straight across the top of the lake and the mountains. Sadly, there were too many sandflies so I abandoned the plan and headed instead for the restaurant. Several hours and a few glasses of wine later, I decided to try the spa again. The stars were out in full force, but the moon was still behind the hills. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the roof obscures much of the light from the rest of the property – a perfect spot to stargaze.
My time at Kinloch came to an end the following morning. I chatted briefly with John and Toni, had one more delicious latte from Jenny, and slowly packed my car. As I drove away, I kept looking in the rearview mirror at the tiny, rambling lodge on the lakefront, restored with love and cared for over the past sixteen years, home to chickens, guinea pigs, dogs, and cats, and visited by travellers from near and far.
If you are in the Glenorchy area, why not consider staying at Kinloch? It’s an hour and fifteen minutes from Queenstown, and only 25 minutes from Glenorchy, or you can catch the boat across ($15/person, minimum 2 people.) There are some companies that offer shuttle services to and from Queenstown; for details, click here.
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