a brush with spontaneity: sailing to the bay of islands, part one

*also known as the adventures of Kiwi Rob and Papito*

Many of you know that I recently spent some time in the Bay of Islands, but what you don’t know is that it tested every ounce of my spontaneous yearnings and made me realise that I may not be as spontaneous as I’d imagined myself to be.

It all started a month or so ago when my friend Christian sent me an email saying he was on his way down to Auckland from the States. Christian owns a little sailboat and comes to New Zealand every summer to sail. I didn’t hear anything from him until he sent another email asking if I knew anyone that might be interested in being crew for him. I said I’d put out a message but also said I’d be interested in coming. We hashed out dates – I didn’t want to be away from work for too long and he has more guests coming in the upcoming months – and it turned out that the week before Christmas was the prime time for me to visit. It actually worked out really well in the end, but of course my type-a personality screamed at me every single moment of planning.

So, quite spontaneously, I booked a one-way flight to Auckland and a bus to Ruakaka. Christian met me there and we immediately dropped over $200 on groceries and booze.

My first glimpse of Irie was from a tiny dinghy as we cruised out of the marina and toward the anchorage. She sat low in the water, swaying ever so slightly with the wind, her masts rising majestically out of her slim body.

We kept things low key that night. We made a small dinner of spaghetti and fresh-ish scallops that Christian and his friend Rob had caught earlier in the week. We played some backgammon, caught up on life, and crashed semi-early.

The next morning dawned cloudy and a little bit windy. We ate breakfast, made coffee and tea, and then the low thrum of a dingy engine cut through the haze. Rob and Jane were on their way to see us. I was introduced and we all chatted amiably about the day ahead. The plan was to buddy boat out to an anchorage on the east coast.

crossing the bar

Ruakaka/Marsden Cove is actually on the mouth of the Hatea River, just inside the Whangarei Heads. After final preparations, securing the cabin for the open sea, and fueling up, we fired up the engines and began to head out of the cove. While Christian messed with some sail stuff, I took the wheel and headed us toward the open water. I could see a storm rolling in as big raindrops began to fall on our heads. As we turned past Whangarei Heads, doing what is known as crossing the bar, we pitched to and fro in the sudden ocean swell. It took some adjustment on my part: the ever-shifting deck under my feet, the water crashing up on the decks, the generous tilt of the boat in the heaving swell.

Somewhere along here, the boys decided they wanted a beer. Christian directed me toward Chieftain, but I chickened out at the stunt sailing and instead tossed Rob the beer. At this point, they decided to raise the jib and begin to race. As I stood at the tiller, turning us into the wind, Christian raised his jib sail. When the wind caught us, Irie leapt ahead like a puppy excited to see her owner.

We left Chieftain in the dust.

sailing to the bay of islands

Our first anchorage was a tiny bay just below Kauri Mountain. We dropped the hook here late afternoon and had our last low key night of the trip. Christian made curry for the four of us while I – apparently unaccustomed to busy days! – took a nap, waking well past the time I wanted to. Tonight set the stage for the rest of the trip though: dinner at 10pm or later.

On the second day we continued north, this time aiming for Mimiwhangata. It’s one of Christian’s favourite spots: a tiny cove in the bay, just south of Helena Bay and Oakura. We sailed for most of the day, letting the wind catch us and take us along in her wake. Irie pulled into the anchorage ahead of Chieftain and we jumped in for a swim. Our anchorage was a tiny cove that was only 6 feet deep from the keel, and we laughed at the possibility that we might end up resting on the ocean floor (we did).

That night, we feasted on a yummy barbecue on Chieftain and hung out under the stars until the wee hours. It was here that we started making plans for a solstice party, complete with lambs from the hill above (which did not happen, but would have been delicious, right?).

It was also on this day – Sunday – that we passed where I thought Christian wanted to be on Tuesday, and where I thought I would be leaving from. No matter, I thought, we’ll be back…

Want the second part of the post? Read what happened next in part two!

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