New Zealand often has surprises up its sleeve. For example, I went north into Golden Bay the week before Christmas expecting small towns and empty beaches. Imagine my surprise then, when I drove into Takaka and saw a long main street full of galleries, cafes, and shops. It made me wonder, what else is in this area? I was curious, and that’s always a good thing for me. The Arts Trail in Golden Bay in unexpected, but when you spend time in Takaka, you will see what I mean about it being an inspiring place.
The Arts Trail in Takaka
I parked and walked up to the first shop I saw: Paper Scissors Rock. I think the name was somewhat serendipitous, being so close to my former blog names, and I was intrigued. I stepped into the cool interior and was immediately swept away by the pieces I saw there. There are six artists in the co-op. Several are jewellery makers, several are ceramic sculptors, and one works with fabrics. Some of those talents overlap, of course; I picked up a gorgeous pair of ceramic earrings. The work is detailed, yet not ostentatious. The metal rings, work by jeweller Ian Astbury, are intricate and detailed, but clean and classic at the same time.
Sculptures by Tania Carey remind me of Alice in Wonderland; they are inventive and interesting without being too ornate.
Before I left, I spoke with Ian, who was manning the shop that day and he recommended I stop across at Kuketa, a jewellery shop owned by Pamela Nelson. I wandered across the street and poked my head in. Pamela was behind her desk, which is front and centre, peering at a few loose stones. I eyed not just her work but also pieces by the other artists that share retail space with her. Pam is the only person that works in the shop, though, and I spent some time watching her set gemstones into a unique necklace and sand a pair of beautiful silver earrings.
“I had a necklace like this when I was a kid,” she told me, which was the basis for her inspiration on this upscaled silver necklace.
I asked Pamela where she sources her gems. Are they local? There are gemstones in New Zealand, but I don’t know the details. No, she said, most of her gems come from India or Southeast Asia. For the stone rings she designs, she goes south to Gemstone Beach near Riverton and combs the rocky sand looking for the right stones to set. I admire them greatly, although they’re a little out of my price range! I told Pam this and she laughs, “no worries,” she said.
Down the road and in a tiny alley is Stone Arrow Jewellery, a studio dedicated to glass design. The shelves are covered with Bombay Sapphire bottles that have been used to create laser cut circles for jewellery. They specialise in paua and pounamu (green jade), both native to New Zealand, and recycled glass.
I followed the little sign that said “come see us work!” and ended up in the workshop at the back, watching a diminutive woman cutting glass. She smiled at me, but didn’t offer any more, so I watched and looked around the studio while she worked.
My next stop was a tiny pottery barn down a gravel road. I bicycled out to it and propped the bike up against the fence. The potter came out to greet me and answered a few of my questions. His clay is interesting; I noted it immediately… there are two colours, and the way that they mingle is almost breathtaking. He motioned toward the tiny shed and said there was more inside.
After I was done browsing the many handcrafted mugs, plates, and bowls, I stepped into the cool interior. Shaya, a young woman who was sharing the space and using the kiln, was there making notes in her journal. She looked up at me and smiled.
Shaya’s work was scattered across the table. It had come out of the kiln that day and was ready to be priced and taken to the art fair in the morning. I browsed the stacks of off-kilter mugs, their glazes a melody of blues and greens, and promised to see her in the morning.
The Arts Trail in Golden Bay
The arts trail in Golden Bay continues even as you leave town. There are potters and galleries along the main road from Takaka all the way north.
Further up the road, in Collingwood, there are a few more galleries and art spaces. The first of these is the quaint Courthouse Cafe, with starkly plain paintings by Ben Timmins and scattered couches with bright pillows. This is the sort of place I could hang out in.
Around the corner is Rosy Glow Chocolate. It’s the tiniest room on the side of an unassuming house along the beach; there are few other businesses around. When I arrived, there was a woman with three children picking out treats. The kids were fascinated with the dark chocolates and kept pointing to ones that they wanted. When they left, the woman turned her quiet attention to me. She told me the history of the shop, how they makes their award-winning chocolates, and what the most popular ones are. I wavered a bit … I wanted all of them! … but I opted for only 4 as a special Christmas treat.
My final stop on my arts trail was the Weka Workshop. Brian and Karen live on a sprawling piece of land on the road to the Heaphy Track, just past the turn off to Farewell Spit. The only reason I drove past was because I was curious as to what lay at the end of the road; I happened on them accidentally.
Brian’s shop is an old wooden barn with a large front porch. The garden seems to go on for ages; it’s not actually part of the space but he said that a lot of people stop in and start to wander. We chatted about his work – the pieces are huge, mainly outdoor furniture made from eucalyptus or American cedar – and about how he finds living out in the bush. Within moments of chatting, Brian sent me up to the tree house and told me to tell him what I thought about it.
My reaction? It’s stunning. They’ve put a bed up there, and a few homemade chairs, and the entire thing looks out over the gardens and lawn. I felt completely alone up there even though Brian and Karen were just below.
As I made my way back toward Takaka, I reflected on the unusual places my mini road trip had taken me. From unique hand carved furniture to gemstones set one by one into silver, from classically beautiful rings to solemn paintings and wild brushstrokes, I couldn’t have anticipated the raw beauty of the arts trail in Golden Bay.
*These are only a few of the artists that I visited with. For travellers in the Golden Bay area, these workshops, galleries, and artisan markets are an unexpected pleasure. I recommend spending at least 2 days in Takaka and one day further north to fully appreciate the galleries and to spend time talking to the craftsmen and women. Many thanks to the artists at Paper Rock Scissors and Pam Nelson for their conversation and insight into their work*
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