Many of Australia’s coastlines have recognisable names. There’s the Great Ocean Road, outside of Melbourne, with it’s Twelve Apostles and London Bridge. There’s the Sunshine Coast, up near Brisbane and Noosa, with endless stretches of golden sand beaches and hot, humid weather. And then, there’s the Sapphire Coast. I got asked several times what the Sapphire Coast was by various people – some Australian! – so I’m here to tell you all about it.
The Sapphire Coast is between Sydney and Melbourne, on the East Coast of Australia. It’s blue. Very blue. The water stretches out across the Tasman to New Zealand from places like Lakes Entrance, Eden, and Merimbula. The soil goes from a red clay to a chalky white in a matter of seconds. Trees soar overhead along the Princes Highway, their tops seemingly brushing the sky. Wallabies glance at you as you go past, bits of scrub tight in their fingers as they look like you’ve just interrupted their lunch. (You probably did.)
I didn’t have any clue what to expect up there. I needed to leave Melbourne so I rented a car and I just drove. And drove. And drove.
Coming? Let’s go.
The Sapphire Coast is about eight hours from Melbourne and five or six from Sydney. Its an easy, if long and boring, drive from Melbourne through flat, brown country to the coast (two hours or so). The road picks up the coast near Sale, but its still a bit of a trek out to the beaches. Further north, at Lakes Entrance, you are right there. This was the point in my drive (four hours from Melbourne) where I first said, “wow.”
I crested the hill on my way into town and saw the lakes and barrier beaches stretching out before me to the south. They were covered in dunes and low scrub, the water was a shimmering dark blue, the beaches pure white. To the north, the town of Lakes Entrance. I stayed here just one night, but in the morning I walked out to the beach and did a short (one hour) nature walk. Spotted: no spiders (thank god!), no wallabies, no koalas, one enormous, slithering lizard.
The Sapphire Coast begins
The next day, I made an even longer drive from Lakes Entrance to Bermagui, about halfway up the coast to Sydney. The drive was interesting, but I only made one stop – in Eden, for lunch and coffee – because I wanted to get to “Bermi” and the Blue Pools. But let’s not talk about those yet. The Sapphire Coast really begins in Eden and goes up to Bermagui, although really if you’re on the coast you’re also very likely to go to Tilba Tilba so I will talk about that too.
Eden
Eden is an old whaling + fishing port town, and its heritage shows in the Eden Killer Whale Museum, the sirens that sound when a whale is spotted, and the continuing fishing industry at Snug Wharf. The main town is small – a few cafes, surf shops, and gift shops. A lookout point, on the cliffs on the far side of town, lets you view the entirety of Twofold Bay, one of the deepest in the southern hemisphere. In the spring, charter boats take you right out to view the humpback whale migration, which – if you have never seen before – is a magical sight.
Pambula
Pambula is a quiet town just a few kilometres from Merimbula, which is the bigger, more outgoing town. Pambula’s beach is ideal for families; it has long stretches of white sandy beaches and rolling dunes. The Panboola Wetlands are another attraction in town – see native birds, mangroves, and more. It is currently the focus of a wetland restoration project. Pambula has a main street with shops, cafes, and restaurants, but the best thing to do in Pambula is get oysters.
There are several different oyster farms in and near Pambula. The freshwater that runs from Ben Boyd National Park and the mountains merges with the Pacific tidal water in Pambula Lake. That combination produces some of the best Sydney Rock Oysters around.
Merimbula
The busier of the two towns, Merimbula is a tourist town with all the trimmings. Vacationing Aussies rent out condos or houses here, or there are several hostels and plenty of hotels. The main street is chock full of cafes, restaurants, and late night bars.
The beach is accessible by the main road before you actually get into town. From Eden you have to cross the estuary into the town centre. At the far end of the beach, where the river meets the sea, kite surfers, paddle boarders, and body surfers make the most of the surging waves.
In the morning, or at sunset, walk the 3.5km round trip boardwalk. The trail takes you through mangroves, along woodland trails, and past the endless oyster farms. At the far end is a little cafe, which is the perfect place to restore you for the walk back.
Bega
The urban centre of the Sapphire Coast is in Bega, known for the bird-filled lagoons and rich forests that surround the town. The main street is full of historical buildings (so is nearby Cobargo) that hark back to the gold rush and a pre-car era. Bega is a great day trip from any of the coastal towns if the weather isn’t great, or if you need a break from the sun (ha!).
Bermagui
Affectionately known as Bermi, Bermagui is a small town about an hour and a half north of Eden. I picked it randomly on the map and planned to stay there while I explored to the north – up near Narooma and into the Mimosa Rocks National Park. See the humpback whales on their southbound migration, swim in the blue pools, and explore the many trails just north of town in the National Parks.
The Blue Pools are natural saltwater pools (with some manmade help) on the rocky coast at Bermagui. They’re well sign-posted and there’s a decent sized carpark if you’re not walking the five minutes from town. There’s a lot of space to shuck off your clothes and leave a towel on the rocks. There are steps leading into the water, or you can jump right on in. Keep an eye out for seals in the water, and if you are lucky you might spot whales or dolphins!
Tilba*
There are two towns of Tilbas: Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba. The main tourist town – the tiny little one street of gift shops, cheesery, old-time sweets shop, and more – is Central Tilba, and it’s an excellent place to spend a rainy afternoon. I think I must have gone into almost every shop in town, including the sweet shop, the cheesery, and the artisan woodmaking shop. There’s quite a bit of history here, from the Yuin Aboriginal tribe legends to the gold rush and finally to the rich dairy farming that still happens today.
*not totally Sapphire Coast…
If you are in Sydney, or even Melbourne, its absolutely worth the drive along the coast to the charming towns of the Sapphire Coast. Stay tuned for a post about where to eat, sleep, and drink along the southeastern coast!
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