For travellers on their first trip to Italy, highlights often include the Tuscan cities of Florence, Pisa, Siena and then one or two small hill towns. Those returning to Tuscany, Italy tend to venture further afield to places like Lucca, Monteriggioni, Volterra, or Cortona. In this travel guide for Tuscany, Italy, I’ll share more about Florence, some of the other popular destinations in Tuscany, and where to stay, eat and enjoy all of them.
How to Get to – And Get Around – Tuscany, Italy
The gateway for most visitors straight into Tuscany, Italy is either Florence Airport, Peretola (FLR) or Pisa’s Galileo Galilei International Airport (PSA). PSA is connected to the Pisa Centrale rail station by the Pisa Mover airport shuttle. FLR is connected by bus to the Santa Maria Novella train station.
Travellers also often include Tuscany as part of a broader Italy itinerary, encompassing Rome, Florence, and Venice, or including Milan and the Amalfi Coast as well.
Car or Train in Tuscany?
Getting around Tuscany, Italy is easiest with a car – in terms of the flexibility and the freedom. However, there are some things to consider if you wish to drive. Anyone wishing to drive in Italy must have an International Drivers Permit (IDP), which is now mandatory, and you will be asked for it when you pick up your rental car. Also, I always advise my clients that driving in Europe is way different than driving in the US. The roads are smaller and windier, and the locals drive like crazy. If you can afford a driver, then you have the luxury of your own car without having to do the actual driving!
Trains in Italy
There are rail stations at most of the major towns in Tuscany, namely Florence, Pisa and Siena. The Italian train system is pretty extensive and very easy to use. To get off the beaten path though, you really do need a car to explore the hill towns.
All in all, though, Tuscany is a wonderful destination, regardless of how you explore it. It makes a great honeymoon destination, it’s perfect for families, and renting a villa with friends is an unforgettable adventure.
Florence, Italy: Where to Stay, What to Do, and Where to Eat
Florence is, naturally, a highlight of many Italian vacations. Brunelleschi’s Duomo, an engineering marvel, and its adjacent campanile tower over the city’s red-tiled roofline. The old city centre is compact, making it relatively easy to determine where to stay (as opposed to say, Rome) and where to eat.
Major attractions in Florence include Michelangelo’s David, at the Galleria dell’Accademia, and Sandro Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus, housed at the Uffizi Galleries. Across the Arno River, at Palazzo Pitti, art enthusiasts can view an extensive Raphael collection as well as works by Titian and Caravaggio. The Boboli Gardens lies just behind the Palazzo and offers wonderful views of the rooftops of Florence. Of course, there are plenty of other works of art and sculptures at these famous galleries.
Insider Tip: The best way to see Florence’s many museums is with a private or small group guide. Often, the exclusive tours offer skip the line tickets, and you have the added benefit of a knowledgeable and interesting guide – usually a Florentine local! – who knows the tiniest details about everything. If you plan to visit a lot of museums, you can purchase the Firenze Card, either online prior to your visit or at a local kiosk. This card also allows skip the line access to holders at most museums and the Duomo, and your guide then doesn’t have to purchase tickets for you.
Stay in Florence
Hotel Brunelleschi – located in the heart of the city – seriously, no vehicle access – Brunelleschi is quintessentially Florentine and a stunning hotel with an exceptional restaurant
Lungarno Collection – these hotels are perfect for those seeking privacy and high-touch service
The Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – located within a walled garden just east of the Galleria dell’Accademia, the Four Seasons is a resort inside the city, perfect for families or couples
Hotel Savoy, a Rocco Forte property – located at Piazza della Repubblica, the Savoy is perfect for those wanting to walk out the door and into the heart of Florence.
The St. Regis and Westin Excelsior – lying across a square from one another, these two luxury hotels are mere minutes walk from the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, and Uffizi Galleries.
Eat in Florence
As in all major tourist cities, the closer you are to the attractions the more likely you are to get ripped off – or at least have a not-so-great meal. I tend to stay away from restaurants that have menus with pictures or options in five different languages. For me, the smaller the better, and I always keep an eye on who’s dining there. Is it the right time for locals to eat? If it is, and the restaurant is busy, chances are good that it’s a local favourite. Some of my best meals in Italy have resulted from my wandering with a very empty stomach, waiting to find a bustling restaurant at 9pm.
All of the luxury hotels in Florence have excellent restaurants. For wanderers, my rule of thumb is to go at least two blocks from the major tourist attraction. As my brother says, all restaurants in Rome are touristy. He may be right, but the chances of a better meal for a better price go up the further you walk. Head for Oltrarno, south of the river, for local osterie and trattorie.
Getting into Tuscany
While Florence remains the most popular city in Tuscany, I think getting out of the city is key to truly experiencing Tuscany.
Part of the charm of Tuscan towns happens in the evenings, when the daytime tourists are gone. The passeggiata, Italy’s answer to the evening stroll, happens in the late afternoon or early evening. Cafes and bars fill up with locals enjoying aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink with small plates of bar snacks, and the streets are full of people, from toddlers to grandparents.
Lucca and Pisa
Lucca and Pisa are both west of Florence by about an hour; to each other they are only twenty minutes apart by car.
In Pisa, the most visited attractions are the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Campo Santo and the Baptistery, all located within the Piazza dei Miracoli. Also known as Cathedral Square, it is one of seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Tuscany. The medieval town is very charming and worth exploring on foot. Borgo Stretto, which begins at the Piazza Garibaldi, is lined with medieval porticoes, designer shopping, bars and restaurants.
Lucca is the capital of the Province of Lucca; during the 13th century, as a city-state, Lucca rivalled Florence. It is most well known for its intact Renaissance city walls, which remained despite the city’s expansion. Each segment of the wall – which can be walked – has a different tree species planted atop it. This “street” is known as Passeggiata delle Mura Urbane, or Walk of the Urban Walls. Lucca’s elliptical main square, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, follows the line of the 2nd century Roman amphitheatre. It’s mainly residential buildings but there are ground level cafes and restaurants.
Siena, San Gimignano, and Sangiovese
Siena, once the true rival to Florence, lost its prominence in the 16th century when the Republic of Siena surrendered to Spain – and was promptly handed over to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Today, it’s famous for its Piazza del Campo, a seashell-shaped piazza in the centre of town. Il Campo hosts the Palio, a famous horse race held twice annually in Siena. This is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In San Gimignano, a town located northeast of Siena, the white grape Vernaccia grows on the hillsides. This UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts well-preserved city walls, intact medieval buildings, and a variety of Romanesque and Gothic structures. There are nearly a dozen medieval towers still standing. This led to the town’s nickname of The Town of Five Towers. San Gimignano is a highlight for many visitors as it’s a popular place to do a day of wine tasting.
Stay in Tuscany
There are some gorgeous estates in the golden hills. Ensconce yourself in one of these for pure Italian luxury and comfort.
Castello di Casole, a Belmond Hotel: Standing tall above Tuscany on a private 4,200-acre estate – one of Italy’s largest – this 10th-century castle has been imaginatively restored as a refined boutique hotel.
Borgo Pignano: Surrounded by lush gardens and scenic views, Borgo Pignano‘s villas promise an unforgettable experience, combining the tranquility of nature with the elegance of high-end living.
Borgo San Felice Resort: Member of Relais & Chateâux, this exquisitely converted medieval stone village in the vineyard-covered hills of Chianti Classico has been renovated to conserve the area’s heritage. Its 29 new rooms and 31 suites charm with travertine floors, timbered ceilings, and brightly colored textiles.
Wine tasting is the premier activity in the Tuscan hills. Visitors will find enotecas in every small town where they can sample the local vintages. In this region, the main red grape varieties include Sangiovese, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino.
More active travellers can bike or hike through the Tuscan hills with tour operators like DuVine or Backroads. Travellers can enjoy a multi-day guided tour with Tauck or A&K, which often include exclusive experiences like after-hours at a gallery or museum, or private performances in hard-to-access places.
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